Balmoral Beach is an excellent place to dine on fresh fish or seafood at the many restaurants or cafés that cluster in this Middle Harbour bay. However, if you fancy takeaway seafood The Bottom of the Harbour fish shop is a chippery worth visiting even if the queues seem interminable in summer. But don’t let that put you off because the wait can often result in some lively conversations among fellow seafood ‘fishonardos.’ Then with fish box clasped in hand it’s just a step across the road to the beach or you can sit in the shade of the large Morton Bay fig trees that line the promenade to consume your catch of the day or crisp calamari with a squeeze of lemon or a splash of vinegar.
Unlike the maddening crowds that populate Bondi and Manly, Balmoral is of a more genteel disposition. A north east facing harbour beach it is sheltered from the ocean swell by Middle Head, however it, like much of Sydney’s beachside, parking can be a nightmare so getting there is best by ferry from Circular Quay or by a direct bus service from York Street in Wynyard.
Part of the stylish, lower north shore suburb of Mosman which forms a peninsular between Port Jackson and Middle Harbour, Balmoral is named after Scotland’s Balmoral Castle. The beach itself lies cloistered in the expensive residential real estate of ‘Balmoral Slopes’ and is bordered by restaurants, outdoor cafés, houses of generous proportion and sea craft bobbing at anchor.
In actual fact, Balmoral is made up of two beaches – Balmoral and Edwards. Divided by a tree-covered outcrop known as Rocky Point and reached by a classic footbridge spanning the sand, the beaches are blended together by a curving esplanade where all manner of beach goers, dog walkers and families promenade in a distinctly European manner. Others less inclined to such mobility, sit in cafés sipping their lattes and dining in restaurants at well patronised restaurants such as Awaba Café, Bathers’ Pavilion and Public Dining Room.
The beach itself is listed on the Register of the National Estates as the ‘Balmoral Beach Conservation Area’ – an area that includes the promenade, the esplanade, the Rotunda and the Bathers’ Pavilion (now a restaurant), dating back to the 1930s.
At the heart of the beach is the Rotunda, home of Shakespeare by the Sea, a popular summer outdoor event (BYO chair and picnic), while the annual Mudgee Wine Festival, when the produce of this country town’s harvest is brought to the city, is a noteworthy event. Then in late October The Mosman Festival, a 10-day program of cultural events, is held in various precincts throughout the suburb.
On the weekend, you’ll see a revolving door of weddings being held at The Rotunda and Rocky Point Island, both popular venues for all manner of ceremonies and photographs. Head to the northern tip of the beach and there’s a small, shady park behind the prestigious Balmoral Club. From here it’s a short walk through the streets or around the rocks to the more secluded Chinamans beach, backed by Rosherville Reserve, a popular picnic spot.
You can hire sailboards at Balmoral Boatshed or kayaks from Oz Paddle who also offer tuition and fitness training on kayaks and ocean racing skis. Next to the boatshed which also houses a cafe, are the swimming baths, enclosed by shark nets and a wide boardwalk.
Over the hill from Balmoral and across Mosman’s Middle Head Road is Rawson Park which faces the main harbour of Sydney and where a memorial Cairn to Scottish pioneers can be seen.
A gift from Scotland at the time of Australia’s Bicentennial Celebrations in 1988, each stone in the Cairn has been sourced from every parish in Scotland and it is here, usually the day after St Andrew’s Day, that celebratory Highland games are held.
While there you can incorporate a visit to Chowder Bay, at the bottom of Headland Park with its own beautiful beach and a netted enclosure at the western end of the bay. The name comes from the whalers who made ‘chowder’ from the bay’s abundant seafood. You can enjoy an afternoon on the beach, take a wander around the charming complex of historic maritime buildings constructed in 1891 by the Royal Australian Navy or make your way to Ripples at Chowder Bay. The restaurant with its tranquil outlook over Chowder Bay and affluent Clifton Gardens, is a popular place for lunch so be sure to make a booking beforehand.
Chowder Bay’s historic buildings are also home to the newly opened Sergeants Mess, a wedding and small meetings venue, while nearby at Georges Heights with commanding views of Sydney Harbour’s shipping channels, Camp Cove, Watsons Bay and Rose Bay is The Tea Rooms Gunners’ Barracks. Within this handsome building, all manner of dining can be experienced, including a traditional afternoon tea which is served with a complimentary flute of sparkling wine. It was at Georges Head that, during the Second World War, the Sydney Harbour submarine base was constructed, designed to prevent enemy submarines from entering into Sydney Harbour.
Mosman takes it name from twin brothers Archibald and George Mosman who moved onto a 16,000m2 land grant in the area in 1831. They were involved in shipping, and were the founders of a whaling station on a bay in the harbour, which became known as Mosman’s Bay.
One of the most picturesque means of getting to this unique area is to take a ferry from Circular Quay to Sydney’s renowned Taronga Zoo where in addition to its exotic animals you’ll enjoy breathtaking harbour views at the world’s only harbourside zoo. You can also go by ferry to Mosman Wharf and then take the bus to the village of Mosman where designer boutiques, decorator shops and cafés offer an eclectic range of contemporary shopping. An assortment of gourmet delis, florists, beautifully presented homeware stores and antique shops add to the village ambience. Here you can fortify yourself with lunch and a coffee then browse through the shops along Military Road. The Spit which leads down from Mosman Junction is another sparkling waterfront recreation area with marinas, restaurants and canoe hire.
The Mosman/Balmoral area is not part of the usual tourist trail but more of a word of mouth recommendation. One thing you can be sure of, it is certain to both surprise and delight.